📅 Updated on August 5, 2026 — Written by Nora MASTAN from the SOOTRASHOP team
⏱ Reading time: 8 minutes.
There are 4 main types of abayas in the world: the Saudi abaya (black, loose, Nida fabric), the Emirati abaya (embroidered, colored, kimono cut), the Turkish abaya (structured, trench-coat cut) and the Moroccan abaya (adorned with Sfifa and Aakad buttons), all silhouettes designed for modern women, including those looking to buy an abaya in France.
From the Persian Gulf to the runways of modest fashion in France, the United States, and Dubai, the abaya has transcended borders and absorbed the cultural heritage of each country that has adopted it. Today, for women in France and around the world, choosing an abaya is an aesthetic endeavor where respect for tradition, the pursuit of daily comfort, and the desire for refinement intersect.
Whether you are looking for a minimalist design for work, a sumptuous creation for a ceremony, or a structured and urban cut, understanding the regional specificities and cutting techniques is essential for making an informed choice.
This comprehensive guide, written by our expert stylists and textile specialists, takes you through the world's abaya capitals to reveal all the secrets of cut, manufacture, and drape.
Each global style has inspired our selection. Discover SOOTRASHOP abayas — Saudi, Emirati, and modern cuts, delivered in France, Europe, and the Maghreb.
To go further, feel free to consult: our complete abaya guide 2026
What is a Saudi abaya?
The Saudi abaya is the traditional model from Saudi Arabia: a long black dress of deep jet black, loose and opaque, with wide batwing sleeves, made from fabrics like Nida, crepe, or Wool Peach. It embodies the sobriety and timeless elegance of the Gulf.
Black Saudi Abaya, Farasha butterfly cut, batwing sleeves
The Must-Have of Modest Fashion Wardrobes: Between Tradition and Refinement
A true pillar of oriental fashion, the black Saudi abaya embodies the perfect symbiosis between cultural prestige and contemporary sobriety. Unlike the fitted cuts of Western fashion, the classic Saudi silhouette relies on airy volumes and fluid lines that enhance movement without ever accentuating the figure.
This emblematic style is distinguished by three elements:
- The loose and voluminous cut:
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The Bisht Abaya: Inspired by royal men's cloaks, it features a very wide cut (Farasha version) and gold or silver braiding (zari) along the seams.
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The A-Line Abaya (Flared Cut): Subtly fitted at the shoulders and flowing elegantly to the feet.
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- Deep black (Jet Black): Achieved through high-precision textile dyeing processes to resist washing without losing its luster.
- Construction details: Batwing sleeves, reinforced invisible seams, and sometimes discreet snap closures on the front.
Jet black, a signature of opacity and nobility
In the heart of Nejd and throughout Saudi Arabia, the shade of black chosen to create the black Saudi abaya is not just a pigment: it is jet black, intense, matte, and absolute. This choice guarantees perfect opacity under the intense desert light while conveying a sense of elegant distinction and noble restraint.
Comparison of fabrics for Saudi abayas:
The secret to an exceptional Saudi abaya lies in the choice of its fabric. To guide you in your selection on SOOTRASHOP.COM, here is a comparison of our noble materials:
|
Fabric |
Fluidity & Drape |
Recommended Use |
|
Saudi Nida (Honeycomb) |
Soft & Silky (Very high fluidity) |
High-end daily wear & Events |
|
Premium Crepe |
Light & Breathable (Excellent hold) |
All seasons |
|
Wool Peach (Microfiber) |
Matte & 100% Opaque (Soft touch) |
Mid-season & Intensive daily use |
How to wear the black Saudi abaya with elegance?
- Pair with a matching veil: Opt for a chiffon hijab or Nida fabric in the same shade of black to maintain fluid visual harmony.
- Play with refined accessories: Enhance the sobriety of the cut with structured leather goods or golden jewelry on the wrists.
- Select the right length: The classic Saudi abaya should skim the top of the shoe for a graceful and airy effect with every step.
For a look worthy of Riyadh's runways, choose high-quality Nida fabric combined with a butterfly cut. To preserve the intensity of absolute black and the fluidity of your Saudi Nida, always wash your abaya inside out, at a maximum of 30°C by hand, and let it dry on a wooden hanger. A light steam is enough to restore its perfect drape without ever altering the fiber.
The black Saudi abaya is the timeless masterpiece combining the authenticity of Gulf cuts with the elegance of high-end fluidity.
Want to invest in an exceptional piece?
→ Discover our exclusive collection of Saudi abayas
What is an Emirati abaya?
The Emirati abaya is a luxury abaya originating from the United Arab Emirates, recognizable by its open or closed kimono cut, its handmade embroidery, and its Swarovski crystal embellishments. It comes in luminous shades (champagne, emerald green) and serves as daily wear or for ceremonies.
Luxury Emirati abaya, kimono cut with hand embroidery and crystals
Artisanal craftsmanship: from Swarovski rhinestones to hand embroidery
Considered the flagship piece of oriental haute couture, the Dubai abaya is distinguished by the richness of its embellishments. Emirati workshops have mastered the art of manual beading, incorporating gold or silver thread embroidery, glass beads, and shimmering crystals that capture the light with royal elegance.
What gives the garment its status as a high-end Dubai abaya dress is the attention to detail. Artisan tailors apply complex trim techniques:
- Artisanal beading (Hand-beading): Hundreds of Murano glass beads or crystals applied one by one to the lapels and cuffs.
- Zardozi embroidery: Metal thread work (gold or silver) adding relief and structure to the fabric.
- Integration of the matching veil (Sheila): Each Dubai abaya with rhinestones or embroidery comes with its coordinated hijab, featuring the exact repetition of patterns on the border.
The kimono cut and the art of "layering"
The hallmark of Dubai style lies in the open kimono abaya cut. This structure allows for sophisticated layering, where the abaya is worn open over a flowing underdress or an elegant pant set, offering an airy and majestic silhouette with every step.
Precious textiles and a luminous color palette
Far from the dogma of absolute black, the Emirati abaya dares to use colored and pastel shades: champagne, sage green, dusty pink, midnight blue, or pearl gray. Made from authentic Emirati Nidha, a high-quality polyester fabric with a silky feel, it shines with its softness and fluid drape.
The ultimate celebration abaya (Eid and ceremonies)
Thanks to its sumptuous allure and rich finishes, the Emirati creation is undoubtedly the preferred outfit for grand events: Eid celebrations, weddings, receptions, or social gatherings where the key word is exceptional refinement.
Guide to materials and finishes: recognizing an authentic Emirati piece
To choose a durable and high-end piece, analyzing the textile and ornaments is essential. Here are the quality standards applied in haute couture workshops:
|
Materials & Textiles |
Type of Finishes |
Occasion & Use |
|
Korean Nidha Fabric (300 GSM) (Silky feel, fluid, breathable) |
Gold thread (Zardozi) embroidery & hand-applied crystals |
Weddings, Eid & VIP Receptions |
|
Medina Silk & Silk Satin (Satin sheen, heavy drape) |
Calais lace turn-ups & tone-on-tone beading |
Evenings, Galas & Events |
|
Crepe Cotton & Textured Linen (Matte, opaque, thermoregulating) |
Minimalist lapels, invisible French seams |
Chic daily wear & Business |
Always check the grammage and origin of Nidha fabric. A genuine high-quality Emirati Nidha (from South Korea) has an ultra-dense weave that guarantees 100% total opacity against natural light, while remaining cool and breathable in hot weather. To preserve the brilliance of the crystals and the structure of the Nidha fabric, always opt for dry cleaning or hand washing in cold water, followed by drying on a padded hanger.
The Emirati abaya embodies the perfect blend of modest fashion and the prestige of oriental haute couture, thanks to noble textiles and handmade finishes.
Let yourself be seduced by the refinement of our exclusive Emirati abaya creations
→ Discover our exclusive collection of Emirati abayas
What is a Turkish abaya?
The Turkish abaya is a modern abaya inspired by the trench coat and coat dress, worn daily by active women. It stands out with its lapel collars, fitted belts, and natural shades like terracotta or camel.
Turkish abaya trench coat cut terracotta Medina silk fabric
Between fluidity and structure: The influence of the trench and coat dress
The particularity of Turkish design lies in cuts inspired by Western tailoring. It features lapel collars, double-breasted fastenings, flap pockets, and fitted belt details reminiscent of the timeless chic of the trench coat, creating a silhouette that is both covering and perfectly structured.
Modern and easy-care textiles (Medina Silk, Jazz, Crepe)
- Turkish fashion houses favor textile innovation:
Turkish abaya Medina silk: A fluid, very soft fabric, with a slightly satin finish, providing an immediate chic glow. - Jazz fabric: A waffle-textured, stretchy, wrinkle-free, and ultra-resistant textile, perfect for intensive use without ironing.
- High-end Turkish crepe: Ideal for structured cuts requiring good hold.
To highlight a fluid Turkish abaya, opt for a hijab in the same tonal range but with a different texture (e.g., a matte crepe abaya with a Medina silk hijab). Playing on material contrasts accentuates the depth of the outfit without breaking the harmony of the volumes.Pair your abaya with a pair of block-heeled mules and a structured bag to elevate your look while preserving the natural drape of the fabric.
The Turkish abaya embodies the perfect blend of contemporary elegance and tradition, thanks to exceptional fabrics and impeccable cuts.
What is a Moroccan abaya?
The Moroccan abaya merges the traditional cut of the abaya with the craftsmanship of the caftan: hand-embroidered Sfifa braids, Aakad buttons, and sometimes a stylized hood (Qob), in deep shades like Majorelle blue or burgundy.
Moroccan abaya Sfifa braid embroidered Aakad button Majorelle blue
Anatomy of a North African-inspired abaya
Each piece resulting from this stylistic encounter borrows precise codes from the Maghreb's clothing heritage to reinvent everyday and festive modest attire.
- The Sfifa & Aakad finish: The central border and cuffs are adorned with a braided trim in gold threads or vegetable silk (sabra), fastened by a row of handmade buttons.
- Modernized Gandoura cut: A wide butterfly expanse ensuring total freedom of movement while guaranteeing absolute opacity.
- Fassi and Tétouanaise embroideries: Geometric or floral patterns meticulously applied to the bust or shoulders, adding relief and prestige.
- The worked V-neck: A carefully adjusted neckline to highlight a matching veil without overloading the headwear.
Noble fabrics and warm Maghreb hues
Cut from silk velvets for winter or fluid crepes for summer, the Moroccan abaya is characterized by deep shades: Majorelle blue, emerald green, burgundy, ochre, and pure white.
The ideal outfit for celebrations and receptions:
At the crossroads of art craftsmanship and modest fashion, this abaya is popular for family celebrations, Henna ceremonies, circumcisions, and breaking the fast during Ramadan.
To preserve the brilliance of the sabra threads (vegetable silk) and the hold of the hand-embroidered sfifa, never hang your Moroccan abaya on a thin hanger. Opt for a wide wooden hanger with shoulder pads and exclusively choose dry cleaning or vertical steaming with gentle steam, without direct contact with the material.
The Moroccan abaya merges the protective expanse of the oriental cut with the textile goldsmithery of the Maghreb to offer a modest and timeless haute couture piece.
Open, closed or belted abaya: what's the difference?
A closed abaya can be put on in one go and covers completely, an open abaya (kimono) is worn as an overlayer, and a belted abaya accentuates the waist. The choice depends on the occasion: daily wear, evening, or event.
Comparative Analysis of Abaya Cuts: Open, Closed, Belted Abaya
|
Cut Type |
Technical Characteristics |
Ideal Morphology & Styling |
Ideal Occasion |
|
Closed Abaya |
Invisible central seams, slipped on over the head or discrete zip, maximum ease. |
A or O body types: Absolute fluidity without accentuating the waist, ideal for chic daily wear. |
Daily use, work, prayer, travel. |
|
Open Abaya |
Free front panels, facing finishes or invisible snap fasteners. |
All body types: Vertical effect that elongates the silhouette, perfect for layering. |
Ceremonies, evenings, city outings, layering. |
|
Belted Abaya |
Removable, sliding or tie belt, integrated loop or free drape. |
X or 8 body types: Subtly highlights the waist while maintaining the garment's fullness. |
Professional appointments, receptions, weddings. |
The closed abaya: Sobriety and absolute comfort
A fluid closed abaya is a timeless classic. It slips on in one motion and guarantees total coverage without risk of opening during your travels or prayers. It's the ultimate comfort piece.
The open abaya (Kimono): The art of layering
The open kimono abaya acts like a light summer coat or an evening jacket. It enhances wide trousers and a fluid top, adding movement and a very haute couture dimension to your outfit.
The belted abaya: Adjusting your silhouette with elegance
Supplied with a matching belt (tie or buckle), it allows you to subtly mark the waist at the front or cinch only the back to preserve the elegance of the cut while flattering your figure.
The choice between an open, closed, or belted abaya depends on the desired visual effect: the closure guarantees complete modesty, the open style offers layering versatility, and the belt flatters the figure.
Alternate cuts according to your lifestyle - wear a closed abaya for your active days and layer an open satin abaya for your evenings.
→ Discover our collection of closed abayas
Which abaya style to choose for you?
To choose the perfect abaya style, select a cut adapted to your body type (flared, straight, or kimono) and opt for high-quality fabrics such as crepe, Nidha, or linen, suitable for the season and the outfit's purpose (work, Eid, or prayer) to ensure comfort and elegance.
According to your body type: Expert advice:
- Petite women (< 1m60): Favor straight cuts, V-necks, and vertical lines (Sfifa or buttoning) that elongate the silhouette. Avoid excessive fabric at the sleeve bottoms.
- Tall women (> 1m72): Loose kimono cuts, models with wide belts, and layered ruffles will enhance your natural stature.
- Curvy or generous figures: The essential butterfly farasha cut is ideal. Its fluid expanse gracefully conceals shapes without accentuating the figure.
According to your lifestyle and the occasion:
For work or university, opt for a Turkish abaya in Jazz or Medina Silk fabric. For Eid celebrations or a wedding, be tempted by a luxury Dubai abaya adorned with pearls or a Moroccan creation with artisanal Sfifa.
According to the season:
In summer, prefer lightweight Nidha, linen, and breathable micro-crepe. In winter, opt for heavy Wool Peach, premium crepe, or silk velvet.
|
Body Type |
Recommended Cuts |
Recommended Fabrics & Details |
|
Petite size |
Fitted straight cut, V-neck closed abaya. |
Medina silk, vertical patterns, solid colors. |
|
Tall size |
Kimono abaya, flared A-line cut, belted model. |
Heavy Emirati Nidha, wide lapels, bell sleeves. |
|
Curvaceous silhouettes |
Farasha butterfly cut, loose fit. |
Caviary Crepe, fluid Jazz fabric, dark/muted shades. |
Never neglect shoulder-to-ankle length! A couture abaya should skim the top of your shoe without ever dragging on the floor. To wear heels without altering the natural drape of the pattern, opt for one size larger than your usual size in length (e.g., Size 58 instead of 56).
Because every silhouette is unique, we've designed two exclusive guides to help you make your choice: our size guide helps you identify your ideal measurements, while our morphology guide directs you to the cut that will enhance your figure. Together, they guarantee a perfectly fitted abaya, from the very first try.
→ Consult the size guide → Consult the morphology guide
📋 Quick Checklist Before Buying Your Abaya
- ✔ Length: The abaya should skim the top of your shoes without dragging on the floor (measure from shoulder to hem).
- ✔ Morphology: Choose a cut adapted to your silhouette (straight, fitted, or butterfly/oversize).
- ✔ Opacity: Check the fabric in natural light, especially for light shades.
- ✔ Season: Adapt the fabric to the temperatures (linen, Medina silk, or cotton in summer; velvet, knit, or thick crepe in winter).
- ✔ Occasion: Opt for a simple model for everyday wear, or elaborate finishes (satin, embroidery, rhinestones) for your events.
- ✔ Care: Choose Jazz fabric or Crepe for machine washing without ironing, and dry cleaning for hand-embroidered models.
- ✔ Versatility: A black kimono abaya with a separate underskirt offers more than 5 different outfit combinations!
FAQ: all your questions about the different types of abayas around the world
Saudi, Emirati, Turkish, Moroccan... it's normal to have questions about the differences between these styles. SOOTRA has centralized all the answers to help you choose the abaya that suits you in an instant.
❓ What is the difference between an abaya and a caftan?
The abaya is a loose, light, and sober dress, worn daily, originating from the Middle East. The caftan is a festive dress, highly ornate and fitted with a belt, worn for special occasions such as weddings. It is very popular in the Maghreb, particularly in Morocco.
❓ What is a Dubai style abaya?
The Dubai (or Emirati) abaya is a type of high-end abaya renowned for its elegance. It is characterized by fluid fabrics (such as Nida), fine embroidery, rhinestones or pearls, and is often worn on special occasions such as Eid or weddings.
❓ What is a Saudi style abaya?
The Saudi abaya is the traditional abaya par excellence. With a very loose cut and black color, it prioritizes sobriety and total discretion, in accordance with the dress customs of the Arabian Peninsula. It is often made of Nida, crepe, or Wool Peach.
❓ What is a Bisht (or butterfly) abaya?
The Bisht abaya is a very wide type of abaya inspired by the male Bisht from the Gulf. With its very wide sleeves forming a "butterfly" (Farasha) span, it offers maximum coverage while maintaining a majestic and airy look.
❓ What is a Kimono abaya?
The Kimono abaya is a modern variation inspired by the cut of the Japanese kimono. Fully open at the front, it is worn as a long waistcoat or a fluid coat over everyday clothing. It is the flagship cut of Emirati style.
❓ What is the difference between an open abaya and a closed abaya?
A closed abaya is a one-piece dress that slips on from the top for quick and total coverage – ideal for everyday wear. An open abaya has a full opening at the front, allowing for layered outfits for a more couture effect.
❓ What are the different types of fabrics used for abayas?
Nida fabric: fluid, soft and slightly shiny — high-end.
Medina Silk: opaque, very fluid and wrinkle-free.
Crepe: matte, resistant and ideal for everyday wear.
Jazz fabric: stretchy, wrinkle-free, perfect for intensive use.
Linen or Cotton: light and breathable for summer.
❓ What types of abayas are suitable for a wedding or a party?
For ceremonies, we favor the Emirati (Dubai) abaya with embroidery and crystals, the Bisht abaya with gilded braiding, or the Moroccan abaya with artisan Sfifa. These festive models are distinguished by their elaborate finishes, pearls, and sophisticated cuts.
❓ What is a Farasha abaya?
The Farasha abaya (meaning "butterfly" in Arabic) is characterized by a very fluid and loose cut, without a marked seam at the shoulders. It offers a majestic oriental style with an airy span, ideal for receptions and generous figures.
Looking to find your ideal abaya? Discover our selection of premium abayas and choose the cut that suits you.
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📝 Article written by Nora MASTAN — SOOTRASHOP Team | Complete Abaya Guide 2026